36 references · 7 brands · 1960s–1990s
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A page for every vintage road component worth hunting — the Campagnolo Nuovo Record derailleur, the Dura-Ace 7400 series, the SunTour Cyclone. Each one spells out what it fits, how to date it and exactly what to check before you bid on a 40-year-old part listed as “NOS, never installed,” then takes you straight to the current eBay listings.
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References catalogued0
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Era window’60s–’90s
No guessed prices: a price appears only from a dated eBay snapshot. Specs checked against period catalogs, Velobase, Disraeli Gears and Sheldon Brown.
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The parts index
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Anatomy of a vintage road bike
fig. 01Hover a callout to light it up. Six systems, six numbered references — the map we organise the whole catalog around.
Most-hunted references
campagnolo · ref 1020/ADerailleur
Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailleur
Read the b-knuckle stamp in the photos and make sure it fits the age of the rest of the bike or group you are matching. Check that the largest cog on your freewheel is no bigger than about 26 teeth, because the derailleur was not designed for wider gearing. Look closely at the parallelogram spring bolt, since Disraeli Gears describes a crooked, cross-threaded spring bolt as a typical problem. Spin the pulleys in the photos or ask the seller about play, because they run on plain bronze bushings rather than bearings. Ask whether the mounting bolt and the cable clamp bolt are original and undamaged. Confirm the cage and parallelogram are straight when viewed from behind, since a bent unit will not shift cleanly however well it is adjusted.
$60–$170520 on eBay
shimano · ref RD-7402Derailleur
Shimano Dura-Ace RD-7402 rear derailleur
Read the stamped model number and make sure it says 7402 rather than 7400 or 7401, which are 6- and 7-speed parts. Check for "Integrated 8 SIS" on the outer cage plate. Plan to pair it with Dura-Ace 7400-era 8-speed levers, because Sheldon Brown notes that pre-1997 Dura-Ace derailleurs do not index correctly with 600, 105 or other non-Dura-Ace Shimano shifters. Look closely at the cage and parallelogram for bends, since a derailleur that has been in a crash may never shift cleanly again. Wiggle the pulley cage sideways to feel for worn pivots, and spin both pulleys to check that their bearings are smooth. Read the two-letter date code if you want to know the year, with the first letter for the year and the second for the month.
$45–$70175 on eBay
suntour · ref Cyclone Mark-II (3500; GT long cage 3700)Derailleur
SunTour Cyclone Mk II rear derailleur
Look for the Mark-II or Mk II marking, and tell apart the short-cage model from the long-cage GT model by the length of the pulley cage. Make sure the largest sprocket you plan to use suits the cage and your hanger length, because the short cage is limited to between 26 and 30 teeth depending on the hanger. Don't confuse it with the earlier sculpted Cyclone of the mid-1970s or the later Cyclone 7000 AccuShift model of 1987, both of which are different derailleurs. Check the parallelogram and cage for bends, and push the cage across its full travel to feel for stiff or sloppy pivots. Spin both pulleys and look for chewed teeth or wobble. Look at the printed graphics, because worn or missing printing affects how original the part looks.
$40–$60210 on eBay
campagnolo · ref 1035 Record high flangeHub & wheel
Campagnolo Record high-flange hubs
Confirm the rear spacing, 120 mm or 126 mm, against your frame. Ask which freewheel thread the rear hub has, and never force a freewheel that binds. Check the hole count matches your rims. Turn the axle in the photos or ask about rough spots, since pitted cones or cups mean a rebuild or replacement parts. Check the flanges for cracks between spoke holes. Look at the quick-release lever shape to date the hubs against the rest of the group.
$90–$230112 on eBay
mavic · ref Open ProHub & wheel
Mavic Open Pro clincher rim
Count the spoke holes and confirm they match your hub before bidding, since the rim was sold in more than one drilling. Run a fingertip or a straightedge along both brake tracks and pass on a rim whose sidewalls feel dished or carry a deep groove. Look closely around each eyelet for hairline cracks running out from the spoke holes, the usual end-of-life failure on a used aluminum rim. Check the joint opposite the valve hole for a step or gap that would make the brakes pulse. Read the label in the photos to make sure it is the original clincher Open Pro and not the later tubeless UST version if that matters to your build. Ask whether you are buying a bare rim or a laced wheel, and if laced, ask the seller to spin it and report any wobble or hop.
$90–$330134 on eBay
brooks · ref B17 (Standard; also Champion Narrow, Special, Sprinter variants)Saddle & cockpit
Brooks B17 leather saddle
Ask for a photo of the underside and look for a date stamp; Velobase records a B17 Champion Narrow stamped B 77, read as 1977 manufacture. Look along both sides for flaring or splaying of the skirt, which means the leather has stretched and the saddle will feel wide and saggy. Check the top for cracks, deep creases or a hard, dried-out surface, especially in the middle where the rider sits. Ask how far the tension nut under the nose has been tightened, because Brooks advises only a quarter to half turn at a time and Sheldon Brown warned that heavy tightening usually ruins a saddle. Check that the rivets sit flush and the leather has not pulled over or torn around them, and note copper versus steel rivets because they mark different variants. Confirm the rails are straight and uncracked and that the frame under the nose is not bent.
$110–$20080 on eBay
Field skills & buying guides
Field skills
Vintage Road Component Compatibility: Threads, Spacing, Clamp Sizes and Shifting
7 min read →Field skillsDating Vintage Campagnolo, Shimano and SunTour Parts by Their Stamps and Codes
6 min read →Field skillsInspecting Used Vintage Road Components: A Pre-Bid Checklist for eBay Buyers
6 min read →Clearing out the parts bin?
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